Two Nights with the Dead: A Gothic Crawl Through New Orleans
If any city crawls with spooky history, it’s New Orleans. I came to the Big Easy to walk its darker corridors—Muriel’s red-lit Séance Lounge, absinthe rituals at the Old Absinthe House, vampire shopping, and a quiet tour through the Masonic Cemetery.
If any city crawls with spooky history, it’s New Orleans. I came to the Big Easy to walk its darker corridors—Muriel’s red-lit Séance Lounge, absinthe rituals at the Old Absinthe House, vampire shopping, and a quiet tour through the Masonic Cemetery.
- MUSEUM OF DEATH
I checked into elegance and walked into darkness. The Roosevelt to the Museum of Death in ten minutes flat.
My first stop after checking into The Roosevelt Hotel (which I do recommend if you like elegance and grand architecture), was the Museum of Death. This little stop was everything you could expect from a place specializing in curating all things morbid and macabre. On display were coffins, skulls, letters from serial killers, weapons and tools used in executions over the centuries, and crime scene photos that will make you happy you didn't eat before stopping in. If you’re into dark history, it’s a quick, intense stop that sets the tone for a gothic crawl.
- MURIEL'S JACKSON SQUARE
For dinner, I chose Muriel's Jackson Square. My reasons for choosing this location was easy: the restaurant is reportedly haunted by the building's former owner, Pierre Antoine Lepardi Jourdan, and they even have a seance room. First off, the food here was delicious and of course I ordered a Sazerac to go with it. The staff here was super friendly right away and I knew I was in for a great time. After enjoyinh dinner at the bar downstairs, I made my way upstairs and this is where things get really interesting. Before ascending the old steps, you are greeted by a table that looks like many of the others, except this one is permanently set for the resident ghosts, complete with wine and bread. I would recommend making reservations before your visit to Muriel's, especially during the busy season.
- BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRE'S APOTHECARY
Mornings in New Orleans offer numerous options for breakfast and brunch. It was a hard choice, but I went with Boutique Du Vampyre's Vampire Apothecary. This little spot is a lot more than what it initially appears to be. In addition to being a bar with delicious cocktails, it also has an excellent food menu and...custom vampire teeth. That's right, they have a fang studio on site for those seeking to complete their vampire transformation. The staff here is very friendly and made sure I had a great experience. Needless to say, I ventured back in here later that evening for dinner.
- OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE
My love for absinthe had led me to one of New Orleans most famous locations, The Old Absinthe House. This location was built in 1806 and served as a grocery store long before becoming the bar that it is known as today. As soon as I made my entrance, I was greeted by the wonderful staff here who made my experience worth the stop. I opted for a red absinthe that was prepared traditionally right in front of me...check out my Instagram for the video. This drink was everything I expected and more. Just be careful, this stuff is potent. I recommend giving this place a visit.
- NIGHT CEMETERY TOUR
Rituals complete, I traded neon for marble and followed my guide into one of New Orleans’ cities of the dead. After dark, the cemetery turns the volume down on everything but breath and footsteps. I highly recommend taking one of these tours, especially at night, the guide was awesome and quite entertaining.
We kept to the narrow lanes while the guide unraveled burial customs, flood logic, and symbols. It was my first time touring through some of New Orleans' Cities of the Dead, and it won't be my last. The history behind these sprawling monuments is vast and truly interesting.
If you go:
Book an after-hours guided tour; rules vary by cemetery, and the guide keeps it respectful.
- Wear closed-toe shoes; paths can be uneven.
- Bring a small light (keep it low or diffused); no climbing, no touching, no props.
- Keep voices down. These are active cemeteries and sacred ground.
- Tip your guide. They’re carrying history in their pockets.
Two nights in New Orleans was enough to learn this: the city doesn’t just sell souvenirs and a place to party, it offers rituals and a history lesson that goes back hundreds of years. A table set for a ghost, a shop that fits you for fangs, and a marble city that files its stories above ground. It’s all walkable, all welcoming, and all very alive...even when it isn’t. If this is your sign to go, take it. Book the flight, be respectful, and let the Quarter show you what it keeps after dark.
Drop your favorite NOLA haunt in the comments so I have an excuse to come back.
